When Balmain turned its Paris headquarters at 44 Rue François 1er into a flash‑mob of music, couture and celebrity on September 30 2021, the fashion world knew it was marking a milestone. The French luxury house was celebrating the ten‑year anniversary of its prodigy artistic director, Olivier Rousteing, whose meteoric rise from 25‑year‑old newcomer to global style‑icon reshaped Balmain’s DNA. The show, staged during Paris Fashion WeekParis, France, fused a spring‑summer 2022 collection with a full‑blown music festival, drawing about 6,000 guests and turning the runway into a rock‑concert arena.
A Decade of Reinvention
Rousteing took the helm of Balmain in 2011, inheriting the legacy of founder Pierre Balmain while inheriting a brand that was already synonymous with post‑war glamour. Over the next ten years he injected street‑culture swagger, enlisted pop stars and introduced a relentless social‑media strategy that made the runway feel like a live‑stream event. By 2021 the house boasted a valuation north of €1 billion and a roster of celebrity clients that read like a who’s‑who of modern pop culture.
What made Rousteing’s tenure distinct was his willingness to blur the line between fashion and entertainment. The 2018 Balmain‑Coachella moment, where Beyoncé strutted in a custom‑cut balaclava jacket, set a precedent for the brand’s next‑level collaborations. The anniversary show was, in many ways, a love‑letter to that approach, featuring a live‑performance lineup headlined by Doja Cat and indie rock outfit Franz Ferdinand.
The Anniversary Show Unfolds
The evening kicked off with an unexpected speech from the global music icon Beyoncé Knowles-Carter. She praised Rousteing’s “vision that turns clothing into a language,” before the catwalk lights flickered to a pulsating beat. The spring‑summer 2022 collection itself was a nostalgic remix, reviving archival Balmain silhouettes—think epaulettes, gilded buttons and military tailoring—while injecting neon trims and sheer fabrics for a contemporary edge.
Photographer duo Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott captured the runway in a campaign that featured a constellation of supermodels. Among them, the former First Lady of France, Carla Bruni, slipped into a “black shiny tweed dress with a corset and notches,” a piece that sparked murmurs about the house’s nod to classic Parisian chic. Beside her, the legendary British supermodel Naomi Campbell commanded the runway in a metallic trench that seemed to echo the show’s theme of past‑future fusion.
Stylist Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall coordinated looks that balanced haute couture grandeur with street‑savvy practicality, while hair maestro Lorenzo Barcella and makeup artist Daniel Sallstrom provided the finishing touches that made the models look runway‑ready yet approachable.
Stars on the Catwalk
Besides Bruni and Campbell, the runway parade included Lara Stone, Mariacarla Boscono and the Ethiopian‑Australian rising star Adut Akech. Boscono, famed for her icy demeanor, appeared in a tuxedo‑style jacket layered over a gold‑shiny chain loop, a look that instantly became an Instagram meme. The casting direction was overseen by Giulia Massullo at DM Casting, ensuring the diversity on stage mirrored Balmore’s global clientele.
Each model’s walk was punctuated by live musical interludes. Doja Cat’s synth‑laden set gave the audience a momentary break from the fashion frenzy, while Franz Ferdinand’s “No You Girls” reverberated through the vaulted hall, turning the venue into a club‑like atmosphere. The combined spectacle reinforced Rousteing’s belief that fashion shows should feel like parties—an idea he first explored during his 2020 couture presentation featuring French singer Yseult.
Industry and Fan Reactions
Fashion critics were quick to note that the show cemented Balmain’s status as a “celebrity‑centric powerhouse.” British Vogue called it “the most party‑like runway of the season,” while French daily Le Monde highlighted the seamless integration of music and couture as a “new template for post‑pandemic fashion events.” Social‑media metrics backed the praise: the show’s Instagram reels amassed over 12 million views within 48 hours, and the hashtag #Balmain10Years trended across Europe.
However, not everyone was sold. Some purists argued that the heavy reliance on star power risked eclipsing the garment itself. A senior editor at Harper’s Bazaar wrote that “the clothes occasionally get lost in the flash,” suggesting future shows might benefit from dialing back the celebrity overload to let the designs breathe.
What Lies Ahead for Balmain
Looking forward, Rousteing hints at expanding the brand’s digital footprint. In an interview with Numero (published September 30 2021, updated May 31 2024), he mentioned plans for a virtual‑reality runway experience slated for the 2024‑25 season, leveraging the tech‑savvy audience that has grown up with livestreams. Moreover, the house is scouting new collaborations with emerging musicians, signaling that the music‑fashion crossover is far from over.
Balmain’s next runway, scheduled for the fall 2022 Paris Fashion Week, promises to dig deeper into archival pieces while embracing sustainability—a topic Rousteing has recently championed. If the anniversary show is any indication, expect more high‑octane performances, surprise guest speakers, and perhaps another First Lady making an unexpected runway appearance.
Key Facts
- Event date: September 30 2021, during Paris Fashion Week.
- Location: Balmain’s flagship at 44 Rue François 1er, Paris.
- Attendance: Approximately 6,000 guests.
- Featured supermodels: Carla Bruni, Naomi Campbell, Lara Stone, Mariacarla Boscono, Adut Akech.
- Live music: Beyoncé (speech), Doja Cat, Franz Ferdinand.
Frequently Asked Questions
How did the anniversary show reflect Balmain’s evolution under Rousteing?
The show married archival military tailoring—signature of Pierre Balmain—with neon trims, street‑wear silhouettes and live‑music performances. This blend captures Rousteing’s ten‑year strategy of honoring heritage while courting pop culture, turning the runway into a multimedia celebration rather than a static catwalk.
Why were Carla Bruni and Naomi Campbell significant choices for the runway?
Bruni, a former First Lady and longtime French style icon, embodied Balmain’s Parisian roots, while Campbell, a global supermodel, signaled the brand’s international reach. Their presence reinforced the narrative that Balmain is both a homegrown luxury house and a worldwide celebrity magnet.
What impact did the live musical performances have on audience perception?
Doja Cat and Franz Ferdinand turned the runway into a concert hall, boosting excitement and generating viral social‑media moments. Critics noted that the music amplified the show’s festive tone, aligning with Rousteing’s goal of making fashion events feel like parties, which resonated strongly with younger attendees.
How is Balmain planning to innovate its runway format after this celebration?
Rousteing hinted at a forthcoming virtual‑reality runway, aiming to blend physical shows with immersive digital experiences. He also mentioned expanding collaborations with emerging musicians, suggesting future presentations will continue to intertwine fashion, tech, and music.
What does the show indicate about Balmain’s sustainability direction?
While the anniversary collection spotlighted opulent fabrics, Rousteing’s post‑show comments emphasized upcoming sustainable material research for the fall 2022 line. Industry insiders interpret this as Balmain positioning itself to meet growing eco‑conscious consumer demand without sacrificing its signature glamour.